We only had four days, but Iceland somehow made it feel like we lived an entire adventure in that short window. Here’s our honest, no-fluff account of what it’s like to explore Iceland, from the sleepless overnight flight to the wind that almost blew us off our feet.

What to Pack and Wear in Iceland

Let’s talk clothes, because if you don’t pack right for Iceland, you’ll spend half your trip cold, wet, or uncomfortable. The weather changes faster than you can say “where’s my beanie,” so layers are your best friend.

Here’s what worked for me:

Warm layers: Merino base layers, sweats or fleece, and a waterproof shell. If you own ‘ski’ pants, those are great.

Comfortable walking shoes or hiking boots with treads: Perfect for cobblestone streets and rocky trails.

Waterproof everything: Jacket, pants, shoes, and gloves. You’ll get misted by waterfalls and rained on without warning.

Beanie and gloves: Essentials. The wind here is serious.

Dinner outfit: Something cozy but nice.

Sleep mask, travel pillow, and noise-canceling headphones: If you’re flying overnight, these will save your sanity.

Day 1: Reykjavik Arrival and First Impressions

The overnight travel was definitely hard. The entire time on the plane, I kept thinking there had to be a way to get comfortable enough to sleep, but no luck. 

We were in the emergency rows on Iceland Air, and I can’t say it was a perk, as we thought it was going to be when we upgraded.  

You have to stow everything, and they will not even let you keep a jacket on your lap, which feels a little insane when you are just trying to settle in. The seats do not recline either, so it makes for a very long flight. 

I did buy a sleep mask and pillow, and that at least gave me some semblance of rest. 

The flight attendants were nice, but the hospitality on Iceland Air is little to none. You only get regular drinks, and although they mentioned meals could be purchased, it was not clear if that was an option once onboard. I also didn’t see any type of menu to order alcoholic drinks. Nothing was very clear as far as food and drinks went. 

Before boarding, they make every single person put their carry-on in the sizer, no exceptions. Thankfully, they did not measure our personal items, because the size limit for those is tiny.

We landed in Reykjavík around 8:30 a.m. Border control was smooth, and we took our time wandering through the airport. We also grabbed a bottle of wine at the duty-free shop, which turned out to be an excellent decision later in the trip. I would highly recommend stocking up at the duty-free shop, because everything in Iceland is expensive. I was a little nervous about our checked bags after taking so long, but when we finally got to the carousel, our luggage was just appearing.

We had pre-rented a car with Blue Car Rental, and that part was fantastic. It is completely automated with no long lines. You scan a code, go to a locker, and your keys are waiting. We loaded up and drove to our hotel in hopes of an early check-in.

Our hotel was great, Hotel Exeter, right in the harbor area. Modern, stylish, and with a very small parking garage that feels like playing Tetris with actual cars. The room and accommodations were wonderful, and the greenhouse-style outdoor seating area was beautiful. Much to our surprise, our room was ready. We did pay a fee for early check-in, but honestly, it was worth every penny just to shut our eyes for an hour. We needed it.

Once we pulled ourselves together, we walked to Hallgrímskirkja Church. It is beautiful, but you truly only need about five minutes unless you are going up the tower. We got a hot dog afterward at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, the famous stand everyone raves about, and I wish I could say it lived up to the hype, but it really did not. The sauce was interesting, and they put little crispies in the bun, but overall, I much prefer a regular American ballpark dog. Andy’s pulled pork version was messy and packed with flavor, but not the kind you want a second bite of.

Next was the Perlan, which was my 12-year-old son’s pick. I was hesitant, but it ended up being genuinely very cool. We watched a peaceful Northern Lights show that nearly put me to sleep in a good way, saw an exhibit on volcanoes and glaciers, walked through an ice cave, and even got to try a special volcano simulation experience that was not open to the public yet. It took you down into a volcano and was surprisingly immersive.

We went back to the hotel for another quick nap, still recovering from the overnight flight, then went out again to Rainbow Road and popped into some of the tourist shops. My son got ice cream, we grabbed coffees, and we strolled around for a bit.

Dinner was at Hlemmur Mathöll, a really great food hall. My son got pizza from Flatey, which was genuinely delicious, and my husband and I shared fish and chips from Krost. Simple and perfect. Of the food halls we tried on the trip, this one ended up being our favorite.

We called it a night fairly early, but not before grabbing a beer and sitting out in the hotel greenhouse area. It was cozy with plants, string lights, heaters, and blankets. Really a lovely end to a long day. Sleep was a little touch-and-go since we were adjusting to the time change. I was wide awake for about an hour in the middle of the night, but eventually drifted back off. Most hotels only have beds for two, so the poor kid slept on a couch, and he was not thrilled about that arrangement. But all in all, for a first day after a rough overnight flight, it was a really good start.

Day 2: Waterfalls, Fissures, and the Drive East

We were up early to head to scuba diving, and I am glad we were because the area gets very crowded as the morning wakes up. We had a great breakfast at the hotel, which was included in our rate, then drove about 50 minutes east and inland to Silfra in Thingvellir National Park. This is where the boys snorkeled. It was very cold, and they said it took a long time to get suited up. It was an adventure for sure. The water was very deep and extremely cold. They wore dry suits, but still came back wet and chilled, and they said they did not want to put their heads fully under the water.

While they snorkeled, I took a peaceful walk to Öxarárhólmi, which had a beautiful waterfall. Then I walked the opposite direction to Langistígur, which was a gorgeous path through a rocky valley with massive stones rising up on both sides. Later, I learned that this path was historically the site of many executions. Fifteen men were once hanged between two rocks called Gallows Rocks, and nearby streams were used for drownings. Beheadings and other punishments happened here as well. It was part of the grounds used by Iceland’s original parliament, established in 930 AD. As eerie as that sounds, the place itself felt incredibly peaceful, and even more surreal when I realized I was walking between two tectonic plates, with Europe on my left and North America on my right.

From there, we drove about 50 minutes to Gullfoss. This was a great waterfall and very easy to access from the parking area. There were several viewpoints, each giving a different look at the falls, and all of them were spectacular. There was also a very large shop and restaurant on site. It was full of tourist items as well as higher-end pieces, and the food offerings looked like a good variety, from soups to coffee to sandwiches. I did not study the menu closely, but it seemed like plenty to satisfy anyone. And most importantly, they have washrooms.

Quick Tip: Most places we visited had a pay-to-park situation. Don’t be fooled by the fact that you don’t see someone walking around giving out tickets. Everything is tracked digitally, and you will receive a fine if you do not pay. Most lots are connected to the Parka App, or Parka.is website. The app is highly recommended, as it allows you to pay online, as opposed to standing in the cold line; however, cell signal was an issue at one or two locations. 

Next, we headed toward Seljalandsfoss, which I think was about an hour and fifteen minutes from Gullfoss. Seljalandsfoss sits right off the highway, so there is barely any walking unless you want to be adventurous and go behind the falls. Of course, we did, and I will warn you that you get wet. But it is a breathtaking sight from behind the falls, so I highly recommend taking the short walk. We also visited Gljúfrabúi, a hidden waterfall tucked inside a narrow canyon. It is only about a five-minute walk north from Seljalandsfoss, and it is an easy path to follow.

By this time, we were hungry, so when we reached Vik, about 50 minutes from Seljalandsfoss, we stopped for gas and grabbed pizza at Black Crust Pizza. It was so unbelievably good. We did not try the black crust, but we picked from the sourdough selections, and it was fabulous.

From Vik, we still had a long haul to our hotel for the night in East Iceland. About two hours and fifteen minutes later, as we reached the area of Diamond Beach and Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, we had to stop because what we were seeing was incredible. Huge icebergs were floating in the brightest blue water. It was amazing. We had a zodiac boat tour scheduled for the next morning, so we did not stay long and continued on to our hotel.

We arrived at the Glacier Lagoon Hotel, and it was amazing. The interior was beautiful and very serene. Check-in was quick and easy. The room was wonderful, very clean, with modern wood and dark metal accents, mid-century modern furnishings, a fully stocked espresso machine, and lush robes. The beds were comfy, and the bathrooms were spacious and well done.

The hotel has three outdoor hot tubs overlooking a small pond and the glacier. There is also a sauna right on the pond that looks out toward the mountains and glacier. It was very peaceful, except for one thing. Right after we checked in, a tour bus arrived. That caused quite a commotion. The hot tubs were packed, and the hotel suddenly felt crowded. Thankfully, they must have had dinner reservations because after about an hour, they all went inside, and the peace returned.

We spent the evening outside the city in hopes of seeing the Northern Lights. It was a clear night with almost no wind and only a little cloud coverage, so we were hopeful. But unfortunately, Aurora did not reveal herself. Even so, it was a beautiful and quiet night, and a lovely way to end a very full day.

Day 3: Glaciers, Icebergs, and Hidden Canyons

We packed a lot of snacks, bars, and meat sticks for mornings like this. The restaurant at the hotel was quite pricey, so we just grabbed a bar and some coffee and headed for the glacier. We signed up for the zodiac boat tour first thing in the morning on Lake Jökulsárlón, and it ended up being really great. To prepare, you absolutely need rain gear. They give you a suit, but it is a flotation suit, not a rain suit, although it does keep you fairly dry. You will want gloves, a hat, and maybe a scarf or something to cover your face.

The tour company got us fully suited up, and you cannot bring anything with you that does not fit in the pockets of the suit. No backpacks or purses. Luckily, the suits have a few sizable pockets for phones and gloves. After getting dressed, we rode a bus for about three minutes to the dock and boarded the boat. There were about eight people and a guide on our boat. The first stretch was a full-speed ride straight into the wind for about twelve minutes. This was the most uncomfortable part because it was cold. Turning your back to the wind helps a little, but mostly you just tuck your chin into your chest and wait until they slow down.

Once we reached the glacier, everything eased up and became magical. We could stand in the boat and take pictures. We saw beautiful icebergs in every shade of blue, seals lounging in the water, and the glacier wall up close. The water was so blue, and the ice was so clear that it almost did not seem real. I highly recommend this tour. The temperature was bearable, and the views were once in a lifetime.

I also want to note that all afternoon tours were cancelled due to wind, and the next day was even worse, so I doubt any tours ran then either. These outings are very weather-dependent, and you really have to go into it with flexibility and low expectations about certainty. It was raining lightly when our tour began, and that did not bother them at all, but the wind is what stops everything.

After the tour, we grabbed lunch from the food trucks. My husband got fish and chips, which were definitely the best choice. My son got a sandwich he did not care for, and I got a cup of pumpkin soup that tasted nice but was barely warm. From here, we wandered over to Diamond Beach, which is only a short walk. Since we had just seen the icebergs by boat, we did not linger too long, but it is a good place to view the ice if you are not doing a zodiac tour. This was also the most crowded area we experienced during our entire Iceland trip.

Next, we drove about seven to ten minutes west toward Múlagljúfur Canyon. I did not know much about what we were getting into because I had not researched it ahead of time, but be warned, this is a hike. It is completely doable, but it is not a simple walking path. Expect a mile and a half or two miles each way with real elevation changes. It is absolutely an out-and-back trail. I am sad to say I did not make it all the way to the top. I wanted to so badly, but my fear of heights kicked in, and I just could not continue. My son and husband did make it, and they said the view was unbelievable. Even stopping short of the summit, the view I had was still one of the most spectacular things I have ever seen.

The sun came out just in time on our way up, and we were followed by a double rainbow, which made for some pretty incredible photos. There were not many people on this hike, and I suspect it is because of the difficulty level, but it would be my top recommendation if you are looking for a workout that ends in an unforgettable view. Do not attempt this hike in heavy wind. The wind started picking up near the top, and I felt like I might just stop, drop, and roll.

From here, we were ready for rest and relaxation, although the wind had other plans. We returned to the hotel and were able to hop into the hot tubs and sauna for a short bit before the wind made it too unpleasant to stay outside. Because of the weather and the amount of adventure we had packed into the last few days, we decided to stay at the hotel for the afternoon and evening. We ate dinner there, although the prices made it hard to fully enjoy it.

My husband got the chicken, my son ordered a chicken Caesar salad, and I had a glass of wine. The food was honestly very good, and I would recommend the restaurant if you are prepared for the cost.

Day 4: The South Coast Drive Back

This morning, without meaning to, we slept in. We were tired, and instead of rushing and stressing ourselves out, we decided to just take our time getting ready and packing up. We skipped the hotel breakfast because we did not think it was worth the cost and dug into our breakfast bars instead.

As we were loading the car, we experienced wind unlike anything we had ever seen. It was actually comical. My son and I followed my fearless husband out the hotel doors with our hands full of luggage, and we were quite literally blown backward. Within five seconds, my son abandoned the mission, and I immediately followed. Once we were back inside, he left the bags with me and went to rescue his dad, who was still outside doing everything he could to hang on to our largest bags. They managed to wrestle the luggage into the car, and I kept thinking the hatchback would be the next thing to fly away. Somehow it stayed attached. When my husband opened my door so I could get inside, the wind grabbed it so fiercely that I could not even close it. He had to come around and shut it for me. I honestly could have sat there all day just watching people attempt to walk into the wind. So many sweet strangers helped one another. It was hilarious and heartwarming.

After surviving the great wind of South Iceland, we set our sights on coffee and then on our first official stop of the day, the Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon. It was about an hour and forty minutes from our hotel. We parked easily and began the walk to the top. It was a steady uphill climb, but nothing too crazy, especially compared to our hike the day before. Maybe half a mile to one mile one way. The canyon views were magical. Looking down, we saw towering mossy cliffs, birds floating in the air, and a beautiful waterfall tucked into the gorge. There were several viewpoints, each offering its own unique perspective.

One tip for parking here. There are two parking areas. One is much closer and gives a much shorter walk to the best viewpoint. It did not seem like too many people knew about the closer option, and we were definitely among the clueless. Luckily, you don’t have to be. The lower, main lot (accessible via Road 206) is parking for the full hike, and the upper lot (accessed by continuing on the rough F-206/F-206 Lakavegur) provides quicker access to viewpoints.

We spent about forty-five minutes at the canyon before getting back into the car. Our next stop was the Star Wars cave, officially Hjörleifshöfði Cave or Gígjagjá. We are not Star Wars people, but we are fans of caves. It was nearby and quick, so we went for it. It is not much to look at from the outside, but from inside the cave, the opening does resemble Yoda. If you are a Star Wars fan, this is a fun stop. Parking is very close, and you can be in and out in no time.

Then we drove to Vik for lunch. We arrived hungry, only to discover that the restaurant we had chosen, Smiðjan Brugghús, could not serve anyone because the power was out. The entire town was down, which meant no food and no gas either. They had no idea when the power would return, so we left discouraged. We still needed to find the basalt columns, also in Vik, so we decided to head in that direction. As we passed the restaurant again, the power was finally back on.

We had burgers and wings, and whether they were excellent or we were simply starving, they disappeared quickly. My son got a kids’ meal, I had a classic beef burger, and my husband ordered buffalo wings. The only advice I have is to get toppings on the side because they are generous and overpower the burger a bit.

From there, we found the viewpoint parking for the basalt columns at Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach. It was about a fifteen-minute drive from our lunch spot. It was fairly crowded, but this stop was fascinating. My son had a blast climbing all over the rocks, and he said it was his favorite stop of the day. In addition to the columns, there were a few small caves and some really interesting rock formations. I grabbed a piece of basalt from the beach and hoped it would not turn my face black. There was also a store and café at this viewpoint, and while we did not go inside, plenty of people did, and it looked like a solid option.

We also passed a restaurant and hotel right on the beach that looked appealing, although we did not stop. Its name escapes me now, but it is right along the coastline.

Our next stop was Skogafoss, another big one. Same note here. Do not park at the first spot you see. There is a parking lot much closer to the waterfall. Skogafoss is powerful and tall. You can walk to the top, but be prepared for a lot of stairs. There are some serious viewpoints at the top that can either get you a fantastic photo or send you straight to Heaven if you are not careful. My fear of heights kept me far away from the edges. At the bottom, you can walk right up close to the falls, but the mist is strong, and you will get wet. Waterproof shoes are important here. This stop also has a hotel, a restaurant, and a café. We grabbed two lattes and a hot chocolate before heading back to the car.

Our final sightseeing stop of the day was the Kerid Crater, about an hour and forty-five minutes from Skogafoss. Parking was free, but there was an entry fee. You can walk the entire rim of the crater and look down at a lake that looks almost unreal in color, and you can also walk down into the crater to stand at the water’s edge. It was beautiful. Pictures cannot capture it. We did not stay very long, but the time we spent was worth it.

After this, we drove into Reykjavik for dinner at Grandi Mathöll, another food hall. I had fish and chips from Frystihusid, my son got chicken dumplings from Annapurna, and my husband had chicken noodles from Eldhus Ira. All of us were happy, but the chicken noodles were definitely the top pick. We grabbed ice cream afterward, and I will be the one to say it: Icelandic ice cream does not compare to American ice cream.

From there, we went to our final hotel of the trip, the Courtyard Reykjavik Keflavik Airport. I chose it because of its location, thinking it would make the next morning easier. I would not really recommend it, though. It was my least favorite hotel of the trip, and it was not very clean.

Blue Lagoon

As part of our adventure, we flew over to Scotland for a few days and then back to Iceland to catch our round-trip flight back to the States. Once we landed back in Iceland, we visited the Blue Lagoon before heading home. I will be the first to say that I was very skeptical based on all that I had researched, but my son insisted we must go, so go we did. I’ll also be the first to say that he was right and it was 100% worth it.

I wasn’t too sure what to purchase, but I was happy with the choice I made. I purchased the comfort ticket package, and it worked out quite well. You really can’t wear the robe very far, and it makes more sense to just pay for an additional drink if you want one. The masks were fun to do with my husband and son, and the sheer magnitude of the beauty surrounding us made for a magical ending to the trip.

There were a good number of people there, but Disney World is way more crowded. Overall, it was a great experience, and I’d highly recommend it.

On the way to the airport, we hit up one last food hall, and it was wonderful. We had pizza and pasta, all made fresh. It was on the air force base.

Final Thoughts

Iceland in four days is ambitious, but it’s absolutely worth it. You’ll spend a lot of time in the car, but every drive is a scenic masterpiece. Every stop feels different.

If I had to sum it up: pack layers, embrace the weather, buy the wine at duty-free, and stay flexible. Iceland doesn’t care about your plans, and that’s what makes it so special.